Monday, 19 September 2011

Famo & Mörser 18

A post of two models this time. It's the Sd.Kfz. 9 "FAMO" and the Mörser 18.
The Famo was a halftrack capable of towing 28 tons and was developed as the Whermacht's heavy hauler.
The Mörser 18 was one of the most heavy german howitsers and fired a shell of 113 kg and 210 mm in diameter. It could be towed by two Sd.Kfz.7's or a single FAMO.

Both of the models are from Revell, the Famo is no.03141 and the mörser is no.03169. both models are also availible in an other version.
There is a kit of the Famo with an 'earthspade' used to aid the vehicle when recovering tanks, this is kit no.03100.
The kanone 18 is a slightely different version of the mörser 18 featuring a different gun and wheels. This kanone 18 was the successor of the mörser 18. The difference between the gun kits is only the wheels and gunbarrel, it is really a shame revell doesn't give you these parts so you can choose which version you want to build. Especially because the wheels included with the kanone 18 can also be used with the mörser 18. Boxing slightely different versions of models as separate kits is they way almost all major kitmanufacturers do their buisiness these days however. The kitnumber of the kanone 18 is no.03176.

Both of the boxes.

The models themselves are extremely well engineered and moulded. These are prime examples of the top model kits that are made these days. Both of them have a large amount of parts, 150 for the Famo and 200 for the mörser. Both of the kits go together very well but I won't recommend the mörser 18 for beginners since it is a quite complecated kit. The mörser can be build in two ways, deployed or on the wheels of the carriage. I choose the latter option so I could have it towed by the Famo. It painted the models to represent vehicles used by the Afrika Koprs. The red parts of the mörser are parts where the paint has worn of to the level of the primer or parts that where never painted in camouflage color.

On to the pictures!

Of the mörser:



The Famo:

The figures are from the Revell german Atillery set no.02515, the flak from a fijumi set.

Both of the behemots:


Both kits are highly recommend, but the mörser for somewhat experienced modelers only because of it's complexity. (It shouldn't be the first model you make, more like your 4th etc.)

Monday, 12 September 2011

Tech Tip III - Uniform colors

When I plan to paint figures of knights etc. I always have ideas about how to paint the uniforms. Color combinations, scheme's and heraldic signs are all in my head until the painting begins! Then my imigination seems to have fled my mind. To make sure I have ideas about how to paint my figures I've made the following chart to help me:


Maybe it can be of service to you too! (click on the picure for a larger version)

Tuesday, 6 September 2011

C1 Ariëte

The C1 Ariëte is a tank developed by Italy in the early nineties. It has a 120mm smootbore main gun and two 7,62 machine guns. The engine is the same as used in the Centauro APC and Dardo IFV so it's a little underpowered tank.

The only model availible is from Trumpeter, the brand has two in 1/35 and one in 1/72. The 1/72 model of trumpeter consists of about 60 parts most of which are used for the wheels. The tracks are of the rubberband type. This model is a typical Trumpeter model, good molding but simplefied in some areas to keep the part number low.



Pictures of the build model:




Although slightly detail as the Revell offers and about half of the parts I can still recommend this model!

Friday, 2 September 2011

Techtip II - Soot

Exhausts, gunbarrels and breaks usually have a little or a lot of soot on them. The best way to recreate this on a model for as far as I know is by pastels you can buy in art and hobby shops. I myself use pastels from 'Van Gogh' of the hardest quality. The pastel can be applied by first scraping some of it off with a knife. This 'pasteldust' can then be made more fluid by a little bit of water and applied with a brush. As long as the pastel is wet it can be (re)moved easy once it is dry this is more difficult but it can always be dissolved in water again.

The reason to use pastel is that it forms a completely matt surface because the pastel consists out of small dusty parts just like real soot but without the property of sticking to everything. Once it is dry it sits almost as good as paint on the model!

Just one warning! When you mix the black pastel of "Van Gogh" with an other color it truns to green. I don't know how if pastels of other companies also have this property but it makes this one unsuitable for mixing.

Some examples of pastel applied as soot: